FACT: It's Really Not That Bad (Actually, It's Great)
Westchester Magazine, August 2014
By Julia Sexton
A twist on the romantic getaway story; what if you brought plus-ones?
Nantucket with Kids
White Elephant Village
Apartments with a pool right off Main Street with kitchens that can accommodate cereal breakfasts, late-night snacks, and any amount of post-nap milk breaks make this centrally located resort ideal for families with kids in tow.
While hotels can be lovely for romantic weekends with your partner, for our money, apartments win when traveling with kids. White Elephant Village offers luxuriously appointed apartments with real kitchens, vast beds with luxury linens, deep slipper tubs, and roomy showers. The two- and three-bedroom units even have iPod docks, gas fireplaces, and elegant living rooms. Tea is served daily in the main lobby down the road, but the killer amenity for guests traveling with kids is that White Elephant Village has a large pool located steps from Main Street—ideal for parents seeking quick, energy-burning dips without a schlep to the surf-swept beach. Of course, the beach is also an option—and the hotel’s complimentary bus will take you there (along with boogie boards, towels, beach chairs, fishing rods, etc., all provided free of charge by the hotel).
In town, there is the Nantucket Historical Association’s fabulous Whaling Museum, with exhibits and lectures geared for all ages (though you might want to skip the Whaleship Essex presentations: its highpoint is a nightmare-inducing act of cannibalism). It offers an educational Children’s Discovery Room with games, crafts, and activities geared to explore the Island’s history. Look for story times and special kid-focused events, too. Admission to the Whaling Museum also buys admission to the Jared Coffin House (the Island’s oldest), plus the Old Mill, Old Gaol, Greater Light, and Fire Hose Cart House.
Near the historic center of town, Children’s Beach offers the dual amenities of a playground and a harbor bathing beach that’s sheltered from surf by a barrier island. For parents with energetic children, this can be a lifesaver near the crowded sidewalks of town. A visit to Aunt Leah’s Fudge on Main Street is a must do. This sugary wonderland makes some of the best fudge in New England—don’t miss the traditional penuche, all brown sugar, butter, and vanilla.
Both Sayle’s Seafood and Cisco Brewery make ideal restaurants for families with kids, but a trip to Nantucket doesn’t feel complete without a meal taken at the Brotherhood of Thieves. This ancient, subterranean tavern feels ripped from the pages of Melville— happily, its craft beers are not, nor is its classic American fare. Also—to give the kiddies a sense of the Nantucket that was—drop into Congdon’s Pharmacy This old-school drugstore has a lunch counter with spinning stools and a worn laminate counter and has seen generations of Nantucketers chow down on grilled cheese sandwiches and ice cream sodas. It’s ideal for kids, and a bit of old-time Americana—a holdout on Nantucket’s increasingly glitzy shopping strip.
On the ferry back to the mainland, introduce your kids to Nantucket’s popular tradition: Throw a penny overboard as you pass Brant Point Lighthouse to ensure a safe return.
Nantucket with Dogs
The Cottages & Lofts at the Boast Basin
Here’s a dilemma for a devoted dog owner: What do you do with Fido when you need some time away? Typically, when we’re talking dog-friendly hotels, we’re talking about hotels that humans don’t want to visit. The good news for pet owners is that Nantucket is full of dogs: All around the beautiful, historic town and on the island’s gorgeous beaches, you’ll find happy dogs romping with their owners. To fill the days, there are waves to chase, nature to explore, and plenty of eateries and hotels where your dog will be welcome. We’ve checked out dog-friendly Nantucket (with our own dog in tow) and here’s what we found.
Located near the center of town on the boat basin docks, The Cottages & Lofts at the Boat Basin offer delightfully clean and airy shingled townhouses with full kitchens and hardwood floors. While simply decorated, the one-, two- and three-bedroom cottages are bright, fresh, and comfortable and come equipped with Keurig coffeemakers, DVD players (with access to a lending library), and complimentary WiFi. Happily, there’s a Stop & Shop as well as a wine store just steps off the dock for quick provisioning. The hotel provides free transportation to island beaches via private beach bus, and also provides boogie boards, coolers, towels, beach chairs, fishing rods, etc., all free of charge. For pet owners, the freestanding Cottages at the Boat Basin offer quick access to the outdoors—plus, because the townhouses are sited on an active boat basin, most normal dog hubbub will be disguised.
Explore: While dogs are welcome at most of Nantucket’s lifeguard beaches before 9 am and after 5 pm, there are some Nantucket beaches that welcome your dogs all day long. Near town, there is Jetties Beach, perfect for visits with Fido provided that you clean up after him and keep the leash handy. Located at one of the farthest tips of this boomerang-shaped island, the Coskata-Coatue Wildlife Refuge connects the island with its barrier beach, Coatue. There, you and your pooch can explore miles of scenic trails that feature gorgeous ocean beaches and a staggering amount of wildlife and seabirds. While Nantucket is one of New England’s most popular (and populous) vacation spots, the Coskata-Coatue Wildlife Refuge is one of its wildest and most remote corners.
Dine: Though restaurants are prohibited from allowing pets onto their premises, happily for Cisco Brewers (www.ciscobrewers.com) dog-owning fan base, the proprietors have figured out a dodge. This popular destination has an outdoor beer garden where dogs are perfectly welcome. Look for visits from food trucks as well as craft beer, live music, events, and tours; plus, for kids, there’s an outdoor play area. While at Cisco, you can also hit the attached Triple Eight Distillery for tours (and drink samples in the beer garden). For a full meal, the cultish Sayle’s Seafood does a roaring trade in takeout lobster dinners—all you need to do is look at the menu on Sayle’s website (www.saylesseafood.com) and phone in your order. In a few minutes, drop by the store (it’s a reasonable walk from The Cottages) and pick up your tightly wrapped foil pan containing lobster, clam chowder, corn on the cob, steamed red potatoes, coleslaw, and drawn butter. Beyond lobster, Sayle’s also slings all manner of fried fish and clams, plus steamers, mussels, and even sandwiches. You can either take your dinner home (or to the beach) or enjoy it with your dog on Sayle’s cozy front porch. Be warned: Sayle’s is BYOB.
Insider’s Tip: While many flights onto Nantucket do accept canine passengers, the ferries are a less stressful way for dogs to travel. Once aboard, you and your leashed dog will be free to walk around the boat to greet fellow passengers and, inevitably, their respective dogs.
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